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1、| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | BRITISH STANDARD BS EN 569 : 1997 The Euro
2、pean Standard EN 569 : 1997 has the status of a British Standard ICS 97.220.40 NO COPYING WITHOUT BSI PERMISSION EXCEPT AS PERMITTED BY COPYRIGHT LAW Mountaineering equipment Pitons Safety requirements and test methods Licensed Copy: sheffieldun sheffieldun, na, Mon Nov 06 09:52:51 GMT+00:00 2006, U
3、ncontrolled Copy, (c) BSI BS EN 569 : 1997 This British Standard, having been prepared under the direction of the Consumer Products and Services Sector Board, was published under the authority of the Standards Board and comes into effect on 15 August 1997 BSI 1997 First edition 1993 The following BS
4、I references relate to the work on this standard: Committee reference SW/136 Draft for comment 95/570084 DC ISBN 0 580 27933 2 Amendments issued since publication Amd. No.DateText affected Committees responsible for this British Standard The preparation of this British Standard was entrusted to Tech
5、nical Committee SW/136, Sports, playground and other recreational equipment, upon which the following bodies were represented: Consumer Policy Committee of BSI Health and Safety Executive Home Office The following bodies were also represented in the drafting of the standard, through subcommittees an
6、d panels: Association of British Mountaineering Equipment Manufacturers Association of Consulting Scientists British Mountaineering Council British Plastics Federation Industrial Rope Access Trade Association Institute of Trading Standards Administration National Caving Association National Engineer
7、ing Laboratory Safety Equipment Association Licensed Copy: sheffieldun sheffieldun, na, Mon Nov 06 09:52:51 GMT+00:00 2006, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSI BS EN 569 : 1997 BSI 1997i Contents Page Committees responsibleInside front cover National forewordii Foreword2 Specification 1Scope3 2Definitions3 3
8、Safety requirements3 4Test methods4 5Information to be supplied5 6Marking5 Annexes A(informative) Standards on mountaineering equipment6 B(informative) Clauses of this European Standard addressing essential requirements or other provisions of EU Directives7 Tables 1Minimum values of tensile strength
9、3 A.1 List of Standards on mountaineering equipment6 Figures 1Attachment point eye dimensions3 2Part of the test device4 3Part of the test device5 Licensed Copy: sheffieldun sheffieldun, na, Mon Nov 06 09:52:51 GMT+00:00 2006, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSI ii BSI 1997 BS EN 569 : 1997 National foreword
10、 This British Standard has been prepared by Technical Committee SW/136 and is the English language version of EN 569 : 1997 Mountaineering equipment Pitons Safety requirements and test methods, published by the European Committee for Standardization (CEN). It supersedes BS EN 569 : 1993 which is wit
11、hdrawn. EN 569 was produced as a result of international discussions in which the United Kingdom took an active part. Compliance with a British Standard does not of itself confer immunity from legal obligations. Summary of pages This document comprises a front cover, an inside front cover, pages i a
12、nd ii, an EN title page, pages 2 to 8, an inside back cover and a back cover. Licensed Copy: sheffieldun sheffieldun, na, Mon Nov 06 09:52:51 GMT+00:00 2006, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSI CEN European Committee for Standardization Comite Europe en de Normalisation Europa isches Komitee fu r Normung Cen
13、tral Secretariat: rue de Stassart 36, B-1050 Brussels 1997 Copyright reserved to CEN members Ref. No. EN 569 : 1997 E EUROPEAN STANDARDEN 569 NORME EUROPE ENNE EUROPA ISCHE NORM February 1997 ICS 97.220.40Supersedes EN 569 : 1992 Descriptors: Sports equipment, mountaineering, mountaineering pitons,
14、safety, specifications, tests, inspection, break strength, marking English version Mountaineering equipment Pitons Safety requirements and test methods Equipement dalpinisme et descalade Pitons Exigences de se curite et me thodes dessai Bergsteigerausru stung Felshaken Sicherheitstechnische Anforder
15、ungen und Pru fverfahren This European Standard was approved by CEN on 1997-01-27. CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this European Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and
16、 bibliographical references concerning such national standards may be obtained on application to the Central Secretariat or to any CEN member. This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language made by translation under the responsibil
17、ity of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the Central Secretariat has the same status as the official versions. CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Luxembourg, Netherlands, Norway, Port
18、ugal, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and United Kingdom. Licensed Copy: sheffieldun sheffieldun, na, Mon Nov 06 09:52:51 GMT+00:00 2006, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSI Page 2 EN 569 : 1997 BSI 1997 Foreword This European Standard has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 136, Sports, playground and ot
19、her recreational equipment, the secretariat of which is held by DIN. This European Standard supersedes EN 569 : 1992. The text is based on UIAA Standard R (Union Internationale des Associations dAlpinisme), which has been developed with international participation. This standard is one of a package
20、of standards for mountaineering equipment, see annex A. Annexes A and ZA of this European Standard are informative. This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an identical text or by endorsement, at the latest by August 1997, and conflicting nat
21、ional standards shall be withdrawn at the latest by August 1977. This European Standard has been prepared under a mandate given to CEN by the European Commission and the European Free Trade Association, and supports essential requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC. For relationship with EU Directiv
22、e(s), see informative Annex ZA, which is an integral part of this standard. According to the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organizations of the following countries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, I
23、celand, Ireland, Italy, Luxembourg, Netherlands, Norway, Portugal, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and the United Kingdom. Licensed Copy: sheffieldun sheffieldun, na, Mon Nov 06 09:52:51 GMT+00:00 2006, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSI Page 3 EN 569 : 1997 BSI 1997 1 Scope This European Standard specifies safe
24、ty requirements and test methods for pitons for use in mountaineering including climbing. 2 Definitions For the purposes of this standard, the following definitions apply: 2.1 piton Device which, when inserted into a rock crack by means of a hammer or equivalent device, provides an anchor. NOTE. Two
25、 parts can normally be identified in the piton: the head and the blade. 2.2 head Part of the piton which contains the attachment point eye (or eyes) used for connection to the rope (via a connector), and which is usually the part struck when inserting the piton. 2.3 blade The part of the piton which
26、 is inserted into the rock crack. 2.4 length of the piton Length of the blade measured in the direction of its insertion into the crack. 2.5 pulling shackle The tool used to apply the force in the test. 2.6 safety piton Piton which exhibits a high tensile strength (see table 1) and having a length o
27、f at least 90 mm. 2.7 progression piton Piton with a lower tensile strength than safety pitons (see table 1). 3 Safety requirements 3.1 Design 3.1.1 The eye shall be at least 3 mm thick (see figure 1). 3.1.2 The edges shall be rounded with a radius larger than 0,2 mm or bevelled larger than 0,2 mm 3
28、 45 (see figure 1). Dimensions in millimetres Figure 1. Attachment point eye dimensions 3.1.3 When tested according to 4.1, the eye shall have an internal diameter of at least 15 mm. 3.2 Tensile strength When tested in accordance with 4.2, the tensile strength shall be not less than the appropriate
29、value given in table 1. Table 1. Minimum values of tensile strength TypeDirection F1F2F3 kN min.kN min.kN min. Safety pitons251015 Progression pitons 12,557,5 F1is the normal direction specified by the manufacturer; F2is the reverse direction; F3is the sideways direction; (see figures 2 and 3). Lice
30、nsed Copy: sheffieldun sheffieldun, na, Mon Nov 06 09:52:51 GMT+00:00 2006, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSI Page 4 EN 569 : 1997 BSI 1997 4 Test methods 4.1 Examination of design Test the requirements of 3.1 by measurement. Check the clearance of the eye with a bar of a diameter of () mm.15 0 +0,01 4.2 D
31、etermination of breaking force 4.2.1 Test samples If a piton model is produced in different lengths, test only the shortest length in accordance with 4.2.5. 4.2.2 Test conditions Carry out the test at a temperature of (235) C. 4.2.3 Apparatus 4.2.3.1 Vice, for holding the piton at a pressure that do
32、es not lead to visible deformation of the test sample and with edges of the two jaws holding the piton rounded to a radius of (50,5) mm (see figure 2). At least one of the jaws rotates in order to accommodate any tapered shape in the piton. 4.2.3.2 A means of preventing extraction and rotation of th
33、e piton, e.g. one or two pins. Ensure that the outer hole of the piton respectively the fixing system remains at least 20 mm from the outer surface of the jaw (see figure 2). 4.2.3.3 Pulling shackle, made of steel, with a diameter of (100,1) mm to apply a force on the piton, the part of this device
34、which is nearest to the piton being as indicated in figures 2 and 3. The shackle rotates freely around axes X and Y (see figure 3), to allow free deformation of the piton. a) horizontal surface b) vertical surface Dimensions in millimetres Figure 2. Part of the test device Licensed Copy: sheffieldun
35、 sheffieldun, na, Mon Nov 06 09:52:51 GMT+00:00 2006, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSI Page 5 EN 569 : 1997 BSI 1997 Dimensions in millimetres Figure 3. Part of the test device 4.2.4 Preparation and positioning of test samples If necessary, drill holes in the piton and jaw of the vice to accommodate the h
36、olding pins. If this method of fixing is not feasible, use other means as advised by the manufacturer. NOTE. The manufacturer can provide means to prevent rotation during side pull, particularly in cases where only one pin can be used. Ensure that the holding system does not cause rupture of the pit
37、on. For positioning apply a force of (10010) N to the pulling device in the F1direction with an initial distance of the line of action of the pulling force from the jaw surface of (200,5) mm (see figure 2). If this cannot be achieved, use the smallest possible distance. Use the same distance for eac
38、h direction of force. 4.2.5 Procedure Apply a force with a traction speed of (3515) mm/min in the three following directions: a) normal pull (F1), specified by the manufacturer; b) reverse pull (F2); c) side pull (F3). If the piton is asymmetric, repeat the side pull in the opposing direction on an
39、unloaded test sample. If the test sample does not break when a force of 30 kN has been reached, terminate the test and report a value of 30 kN. 5 Information to be supplied a) The name or trademark of the manufacturer, importer or supplier, together with their address; b) the number of this European
40、 Standard: EN 569; c) the meaning of any markings on the product; d) explanation of the indication of length; e) explanation of the symbol S; f) information that the breaking force and the resistance of the piton will be reduced with the time, placed in a rock; g) the use of the product; h) how to c
41、hoose other components for use in the system; i) how to maintain and service the product; j) the lifespan of the product; k) the effects of chemical reagents and temperature on the product. 6 Marking The head of each piton shall be marked with at least the following information: a) the name or trade
42、mark of the manufacturer, importer or supplier; b) the piton length, expressed in centimetres rounded down to the nearest whole centimetre, prefixed by the letter L, e.g. L10; c) safety pitons shall be marked with the letter S in a circle. NOTE. If there is insufficient space on the head, the name o
43、r trademark of the manufacturer can be affixed to the piton blade. Licensed Copy: sheffieldun sheffieldun, na, Mon Nov 06 09:52:51 GMT+00:00 2006, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSI Page 6 EN 569 : 1997 BSI 1997 Table A.1 List of standards on mountaineering equipment No.DocumentTitle 1EN 892Mountaineering e
44、quipment Dynamic mountaineering ropes Safety requirements and test methods 2prEN 12275Mountaineering equipment Connectors Safety requirements and test methods 3 1) Mountaineering equipment Ice-tools Safety requirements and test methods (00136012) 4prEN 12277Mountaineering equipment Harnesses Safety
45、requirements and test methods 5 1) Mountaineering equipment Safety helmets Safety requirements and test methods (00136076) 6EN 564Mountaineering equipment Accessory cord Safety requirements and test methods 7EN 565Mountaineering equipment Tape Safety requirements and test methods 8EN 566Mountaineeri
46、ng equipment Slings Safety requirements and test methods 9prEN 12276Mountaineering equipment Frictional anchors Safety requirements and test methods 10prEN 12270Mountaineering equipment Chocks Safety requirements and test methods 11EN 567Mountaineering equipment Rope clamps Safety requirements and t
47、est methods 12EN 958Mountaineering equipment Energy absorbing systems for use in klettersteig (via ferrata) climbing Safety requirements and test methods 13EN 959Mountaineering equipment Rock anchors Safety requirements and test methods 14EN 568Mountaineering equipment Ice anchors Safety requirement
48、s and test methods 15EN 569Mountaineering equipment Pitons Safety requirements and test methods 16prEN 893Mountaineering equipment Crampons Safety requirements and test methods 17 1) Mountaineering equipment Descenders Safety requirements and test methods (00136079) 18prEN 12278Mountaineering equipm
49、ent Pulleys Safety requirements and test methods 19prEN 12492Mountaineering equipment Climbers safety helmets Safety requirements and test methods 1) In preparation. Annex A (informative) Standards on mountaineering equipment Licensed Copy: sheffieldun sheffieldun, na, Mon Nov 06 09:52:51 GMT+00:00 2006, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSI Page 7 EN 569 : 1997 BSI 1997 Annex ZA (informative) Clauses of this European Standard addressing essential requirements or
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