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1、 Reference number ISO 23606:2009(E) ISO 2009 INTERNATIONAL STANDARD ISO 23606 First edition 2009-03-15 Textiles Knitted fabrics Representation and pattern design Textiles toffes tricotes Reprsentation et mise en carte ISO 23606:2009(E) PDF disclaimer This PDF file may contain embedded typefaces. In
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4、printing. Every care has been taken to ensure that the file is suitable for use by ISO member bodies. In the unlikely event that a problem relating to it is found, please inform the Central Secretariat at the address given below. COPYRIGHT PROTECTED DOCUMENT ISO 2009 All rights reserved. Unless othe
5、rwise specified, no part of this publication may be reproduced or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying and microfilm, without permission in writing from either ISO at the address below or ISOs member body in the country of the requester. ISO copyrigh
6、t office Case postale 56 CH-1211 Geneva 20 Tel. + 41 22 749 01 11 Fax + 41 22 749 09 47 E-mail copyrightiso.org Web www.iso.org Published in Switzerland ii ISO 2009 All rights reserved -,-,- ISO 23606:2009(E) ISO 2009 All rights reserved iii Contents Page Foreword iv 1 Scope . 1 2 Terms and definiti
7、ons. 1 3 Weft-knitted fabrics 2 3.1 Representation 2 3.2 Basic rules of representation 3 3.3 Pattern draft grids. 4 3.4 Symbols for representation. 6 3.5 Auxiliary signs 8 4 Warp-knitted fabrics. 9 4.1 Representation 9 4.2 Basic rules for representations and denominations. 12 Bibliography. 13 -,-,-
8、ISO 23606:2009(E) iv ISO 2009 All rights reserved Foreword ISO (the International Organization for Standardization) is a worldwide federation of national standards bodies (ISO member bodies). The work of preparing International Standards is normally carried out through ISO technical committees. Each
9、 member body interested in a subject for which a technical committee has been established has the right to be represented on that committee. International organizations, governmental and non-governmental, in liaison with ISO, also take part in the work. ISO collaborates closely with the Internationa
10、l Electrotechnical Commission (IEC) on all matters of electrotechnical standardization. International Standards are drafted in accordance with the rules given in the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 2. The main task of technical committees is to prepare International Standards. Draft International Standards
11、 adopted by the technical committees are circulated to the member bodies for voting. Publication as an International Standard requires approval by at least 75 % of the member bodies casting a vote. Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of
12、 patent rights. ISO shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights. ISO 23606 was prepared by Technical Committee ISO/TC 38, Textiles, Subcommittee SC 20, Fabric descriptions. -,-,- INTERNATIONAL STANDARD ISO 23606:2009(E) ISO 2009 All rights reserved 1 Textiles Knitted
13、fabrics Representation and pattern design 1 Scope This International Standard specifies various systems of symbolic notation and pattern design for knitted fabrics. The symbolic notations contained in this International Standard do not necessarily constitute the only method of representation. 2 Term
14、s and definitions For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply. 2.1 knitted fabrics generic name applied to textile fabrics in which at least one system of threads is formed into knitted loops and the knitted loops are intermeshed into stitches ISO 8388:1998, definiti
15、on 3.0.1 NOTE Knitting machines classified according to ISO 7839 are used. 2.2 weft-knitted fabrics generic name applied to knitted fabrics in which the stitches made by each thread are formed substantially across the width of the fabric NOTE 1 Weft-knitted fabrics are characterised by the fact that
16、 each weft thread is fed more or less at right angles to the direction in which the fabric is produced. ISO 8388:1998, definition 3.0.2 NOTE 2 Weft-knitted fabrics are manufactured on flat or circular weft-knitting machines as classified in ISO 7839. 2.3 warp-knitted fabrics generic name applied to
17、knitted fabrics in which the stitches made from each warp thread are formed substantially along the length of the fabric NOTE 1 Warp-knitted fabrics are characterised by the fact that each warp thread is fed more or less in line with the direction in which the fabric is produced. ISO 8388:1998, defi
18、nition 3.0.3 NOTE 2 Warp-knitted fabrics are manufactured on flat or circular warp knitting machines as classified in ISO 7839. NOTE 3 Stitch-bonded fabrics are a special variation of warp-knitted fabrics manufactured on flat warp knitting machines in accordance with ISO 8640-4, which are equipped w
19、ith stitch-through compound needles, etc. ISO 23606:2009(E) 2 ISO 2009 All rights reserved 3 Weft-knitted fabrics 3.1 Representation Term No. Term Definition, example 3.1.1 loop structure magnified, two-dimensional line representation of the yarn path in a knitted construction EXAMPLE Single jersey-
20、based fabric (technical reverse side). 3.1.2 pattern draft diagrammatic representation of a knitted fabric carried out on a pattern drafting screen by taking stated divisions into account NOTE A distinction is made between a graphic pattern draft (3.1.2.1) and a technical pattern draft (3.1.2.2). 3.
21、1.2.1 graphic pattern draft pictorial representation of a knitted fabric 3.1.2.2 technical pattern draft symbolic representation of the stitches of a knitted fabric read according to the manufacture of a knitted fabric from bottom to top NOTE 1 A technical pattern draft can be a two-dimensional repr
22、esentation on a grid or a linear representation on matrix dots (yarn path). NOTE 2 A technical pattern draft is represented either as a construction pattern draft (3.1.2.2.1) or as a working pattern draft (3.1.2.2.2). 3.1.2.2.1 construction pattern draft symbolic representation of the structure of a
23、 knitted fabric 3.1.2.2.2 working pattern draft symbolic representation of the working process according to the manufacture of the knitted fabric -,-,- ISO 23606:2009(E) ISO 2009 All rights reserved 3 3.2 Basic rules of representation 3.2.1 The two-dimensional representation and yarn path representa
24、tion can be used simultaneously or separately for the technical pattern drafting of a knitted fabric. The construction can either be represented according to the knitted structure (construction pattern draft) or according to the manufacture (working pattern draft). 3.2.2 The pattern draft is built u
25、p according to the yarn path from bottom to top. To achieve the representation of the yarn path, start with the left needle of the front needle carrier and finish with the right needle of the rear needle carrier. Knitting machines with short and long needles in their needle carriers have a long, fir
26、st needle in their front needle carrier. 3.2.3 The technical pattern draft provides options of representation for each stitch element and its variations. The pattern draft can, however, be shortened by drafting the repeats of the ground pattern into the left bottom corner of the pattern draft field
27、and by entering only the variation from the ground pattern in the remaining pattern draft fields (abbreviated representation). If in doubt, the complete representation is mandatory. 3.2.4 A horizontal row of the technical pattern draft is equivalent to a single manufactured stitch course. 3.2.5 A wo
28、rking pattern draft of, e.g. a fleecy fabric, requires a multi-row design. 3.2.6 In two-dimensional representations of transfer stitches, an additional mark of the stitch side is applied for purl-based fabrics by appropriate symbols for the technical face side and the technical reverse side next to
29、the symbol for transfer stitches. 3.2.7 Auxiliary signs that refer to a crosswise row of the pattern draft (course) shall be arranged on the right side of the pattern draft. Auxiliary signs that refer to a lengthwise row of the pattern draft (wale) shall be arranged below the pattern draft. Auxiliar
30、y signs referring to a symbol shall be arranged inside the pattern draft below the appropriate symbol. 3.2.8 The pattern draft shall contain at least one pattern repeat for height and width. The pattern repeat shall be marked. -,-,- ISO 23606:2009(E) 4 ISO 2009 All rights reserved 3.3 Pattern draft
31、grids 3.3.1 Pattern draft grids for two-dimensional representation Term No. Term Definition, examplea 3.3.1.1 square grid grid with regular field divisions at right angles 3.3.1.2 special grid across grid, applicable to rib-based fabrics, with irregular field divisions at right angles made up of a l
32、arge horizontal and a small vertical rectangle at a time, arranged next to each other and alternately in parallel lengthwise rows NOTE The large horizontal rectangles are used to mark stitch elements or processes on the front needle carrier. The small vertical rectangles are used to mark stitch elem
33、ents or processes on the rear needle carrier. 3.3.1.3 special grid vertical grid, applicable to interlock-based fabrics, with irregular, rectangular field divisions (as per 3.3.1.2 but rotated by 90) NOTE The large vertical rectangles are used to mark stitch elements or processes on the front needle
34、 carrier. The small horizontal rectangles are used to mark stitch elements or processes on the rear needle carrier. a The examples given show three frequently used pattern grids. Depending on requirements, the line distances are different for individual pattern grids. -,-,- ISO 23606:2009(E) ISO 200
35、9 All rights reserved 5 3.3.2 Pattern grids for yarn path representation Term No. Term Definition, examplea 3.3.2.1 dot matrix straight- line grid, applicable to single jersey-based, purl-based and interlock-based fabrics, with parallel rows of dots according to the needle arrangement in the needle
36、carriers 3.3.2.2 dot matrix transposed grid, applicable to rib-based fabrics, with transposed rows of dots according to the needle arrangement in the needle carriers a The examples given show two frequently used pattern grids. Depending on requirements, the dot distances are different for individual
37、 pattern grids. -,-,- ISO 23606:2009(E) 6 ISO 2009 All rights reserved 3.4 Symbols for representation Term No. Term Loop structure Yarn path representation Two-dimensional representation 3.4.1 needle welt 3.4.2 stitch technical face side technical reverse side 3.4.3 tuck loop technical face side tec
38、hnical reverse side 3.4.4 float 3.4.5 weft inlay 3.4.6 warp inlay 3.4.7 transfer stitch 3.4.8 semi-transferred stitch; split stitch -,-,- ISO 23606:2009(E) ISO 2009 All rights reserved 7 Term No. Term Loop structure Yarn path representation Two-dimensional representation 3.4.9 expanded stitch 3.4.10
39、 transferred sinker loop 3.4.11 plated stitch 3.4.12 pile loop closed 3.4.13 long stitch technical face side technical reverse side 3.4.14 rib, 1/1 3.4.15 interlock -,-,- ISO 23606:2009(E) 8 ISO 2009 All rights reserved 3.5 Auxiliary signs 3.5.1 Racking On a dot matrix transposed grid, racking is in
40、dicated by a horizontal arrow pointing in the direction of the racking. The length of the arrow indicates the number of needles for the displacement. Vertical lines indicate the relationship to the racked needle carrier (see Figure 1). Figure 1 Racking of the rear needle carrier by two pitches to th
41、e right 3.5.2 Needle position and needle application A line in the lengthwise direction is used to indicate a needle in the working position. A horizontal cross is used to indicate a needle in the idle position (see Figure 2). Key | long needle short needle needle in idle position Figure 2 Needle po
42、sition and application -,-,- ISO 23606:2009(E) ISO 2009 All rights reserved 9 4 Warp-knitted fabrics 4.1 Representation Term No. Term Definition, example 4.1.1 loop structure magnified, two-dimensional line representation of the yarn path in a knitted construction EXAMPLE Single-face cord (2 1)trico
43、t (1 1) (closed stitches, counter-lapped). 4.1.2 graphic pattern draft two-dimensional representation of warp-knitted fabric pattern by symbols (colour, signs) on regular, often square grids, used in particular for jacquard patterning -,-,- ISO 23606:2009(E) 10 ISO 2009 All rights reserved Term No.
44、Term Definition, example 4.1.3 lapping pattern draft line representation, read from bottom to top, of lapping of pattern threads in a regular, mostly openwork background NOTE The pattern grid roughly represents the structure of the background. EXAMPLE 1 Lapping pattern draft for quadrangular net (e.
45、g. curtain). EXAMPLE 2 Lapping pattern draft for hexagonal net (e.g. tulle). 4.1.4 lapping diagram schematic representation, read from bottom to top, of the movement of one or more yarn guides around the needles, drafted above each other in rows (dot matrix) EXAMPLE Single-face tricot (1 1) Double-f
46、ace atlas Key front needle bar (F) back needle bar (B) NOTE 1 It is common practice to number the gaps below the lapping representation on the dot matrix (equals needle gaps). The type of numbering is dependent on the machine used for manufacture. Numbering starts from the left or right side accordi
47、ng to the position of the pattern drive as specified in ISO 8640-3. NOTE 2 For many single-face constructions, this representation corresponds approximately to the path of the yarn when viewed from the back of the stitch. -,-,- ISO 23606:2009(E) ISO 2009 All rights reserved 11 Term No. Term Definition, example 4.1.5 lapping notation numeric row-by-row description, read from top to bottom and, when continued, from left to right, of the yarn guides movement around the needles needed for a repeat NOTE The numbering of guide bars in flat warp knitting machi
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